How to Choose an Antique Diamond Shape for Your Engagement Ring
The right antique diamond shape comes down to three things: the look you love, the era you are drawn to, and how the shape sits on your hand. In antique engagement rings the most common shapes are the round old European cut and the cushion-shaped old mine cut, followed by Asscher and emerald cuts, marquise, pear and oval. Here is how each one looks and wears.
The antique diamond shapes
Round: the old European cut
The classic antique round, found in late Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco rings. A small table, tall crown and open culet give it bold, chunky flashes of light. If you picture a timeless solitaire, this is it. Shop old European cuts.
Cushion: the old mine cut
Squarish with softly rounded sides, and the signature diamond of Georgian and Victorian jewelry. Softer and more romantic than a round, with very broad flashes. Shop old mine cuts. Not sure which of these two you prefer? Compare old mine cut vs. old European cut.
Asscher cut
A square step cut with cut corners, introduced by the Asscher company of Amsterdam in 1902 and closely tied to the Art Deco look. Looking down into one is like looking down a hall of mirrors. Antique Asschers are a special find. Shop Asscher cuts.
Emerald cut
A rectangular step cut with long, clean facets that show clarity and give a cool, elegant flash rather than sparkle. Popular in Art Deco and later rings. Shop emerald cuts.
Marquise
Long and pointed at both ends, a shape with roots in 18th-century France and loved in Edwardian and mid-century rings. It makes a diamond look larger for its weight and lengthens the finger. Shop marquise cuts.
Pear
Rounded at one end and pointed at the other, like a teardrop. Graceful, a little unexpected, and flattering on most hands. Shop pear cuts.
Oval
Antique ovals were cut by hand and often have a softer, slightly irregular outline that gives them real character. They elongate the finger like a marquise, without the points. Shop oval cuts.
Rose cut
Flat on the bottom and domed on top, with a soft glow instead of sparkle. Rose cuts sit very low and look larger than their weight suggests. Common in Georgian and Victorian pieces.
Matching shape to era
- Georgian and Victorian: old mine cushions and rose cuts, often in yellow gold with silver tops. Victorian jewelry.
- Edwardian: old European rounds, old mine cuts and marquise, in lacy platinum. Edwardian jewelry.
- Art Deco: old European rounds, Asscher and emerald cuts, with baguettes and calibré colored stones. Art Deco jewelry.
How shapes look on the hand
- Elongated shapes (marquise, pear, oval, emerald cut) make fingers look longer and slimmer and cover more of the finger for the carat weight.
- Round and cushion shapes suit almost every hand and look balanced in any setting.
- Square step cuts such as the Asscher look crisp and architectural, especially on a slim band.
The best test is to try a few on, or ask us for a photo of a ring on the hand next to a coin or a ruler so you can judge scale.
Everyday wear
- Pointed shapes. Marquise and pear diamonds are traditionally set with prongs or a bezel that cradle their tips, keeping them secure for everyday wear.
- Corners on step cuts such as emerald and Asscher cuts are usually trimmed, which helps protect them.
- Rounds, cushions and ovals have no sharp points and are the most forgiving shapes for daily wear.
- Low settings are common in antique rings and help protect any shape. Most of our ring listings give the height off the finger.
Ready to look?
Browse all our antique engagement rings, or tell us the shape and style you have in mind and we will show you the best options we have. You are welcome to visit by appointment in Great Neck, New York.
Written by Shawn Eshaghian, appraiser and co-owner of The Antique Parlour in Great Neck, New York, which he runs with Natasha. He writes and signs The Antique Parlour's certificates of appraisal.
