How to Identify Victorian Jewelry: An Appraiser's Checklist
To identify Victorian jewelry (1837 to 1901), look at five things: the diamond cuts, the metal, the hallmarks, the way the stones are set and the motifs. No single clue proves a date, but when they all point to the same era you can be confident. Here is the checklist we use.
1. The diamonds
Victorian diamonds are almost always old cuts: cushion-shaped old mine cuts, domed rose cuts, and, toward the end of the century, early old European cuts. That hand-cut look is one of the clearest signs of a true Victorian piece.
2. The metal
- Gold. Most Victorian jewelry is yellow or rose-toned gold. British pieces are often 9, 12, 15 or 18 karat; American pieces are often 10, 14 or 18 karat.
- Silver-topped gold. Diamonds were often set in silver, soldered over a gold base, because silver made them look whiter. Silver tops darken with age, and that dark patina is a good sign.
- No platinum, usually. Platinum did not become common in jewelry until around 1900, so a platinum piece is more likely Edwardian or later.
3. Hallmarks and marks
British gold was often hallmarked with a karat mark, an assay office mark and a date letter, which can date a piece to the year. American Victorian jewelry is frequently unmarked or marked only with a karat or maker's mark. Many fine antique pieces are unmarked, which is perfectly normal for the era. Our hallmark guide explains what to look for.
4. Settings and construction
- Closed-back settings, sometimes with foil behind the stones, are typical of early Victorian work.
- Handwork. Victorian pieces were largely made by hand, so expect charming small irregularities in prongs, engraving and gold work.
- Brooch fittings. Early brooches often have a simple C-shaped catch and a pin that extends past the edge of the brooch. Safety catches came later.
5. Motifs by period
- Romantic, 1837 to about 1860: hearts, hands, snakes, flowers, love knots, bows; fine gold work and colored stones such as garnet and turquoise.
- Grand, about 1861 to 1880: bolder, heavier pieces, with dramatic jet, onyx and black enamel and sentimental lockets.
- Late, about 1880 to 1901: lighter designs, stars, crescents, birds, bar brooches, half-hoop and cluster rings with old mine diamonds.
For the history behind these styles, read the history of Victorian jewelry.
Want a second opinion?
If you are buying, ask the seller how they dated the piece; a knowledgeable dealer enjoys explaining it. Every piece in our Victorian collection has been examined before it is listed, and we are happy to answer questions about any of them.
Written by Shawn Eshaghian, appraiser and co-owner of The Antique Parlour in Great Neck, New York, which he runs with Natasha. He writes and signs The Antique Parlour's certificates of appraisal.
