What Are Old Cut Diamonds? A Guide to Antique Diamond Cuts

Old cut diamonds are diamonds cut by hand before the modern round brilliant became the standard in the mid 20th century. The main types are the old mine cut, the old European cut, the rose cut and the transitional cut. They were shaped by eye, with simple tools, for rooms lit by candles and gas lamps, and that is why they look so different from a diamond cut today: broader, warmer flashes of light instead of fine, bright glitter.

We handle old cut diamonds every day at The Antique Parlour, and they are the reason many of our clients come to us. This guide covers what they are, how to recognize one, and what to look for if you are thinking of buying.

The main types of old cut diamonds

Rose cut

One of the oldest faceted cuts, used in Europe since the 1500s. A rose cut has a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets, a little like the bud of a rose. There is no pavilion underneath to throw light back up, so a rose cut glows rather than sparkles. You will see them in Georgian and Victorian jewelry, often set in silver over gold.

Old mine cut

The cushion-shaped ancestor of the modern brilliant, used from the 1700s through the late 1800s. Old mine cuts are squarish with softly rounded sides, a high crown, a small table and usually an open culet (a tiny flat facet at the bottom that shows as a small circle when you look straight down). They are the classic Georgian and Victorian diamond. Browse our old mine cut diamonds.

Old European cut

Round, and the direct forerunner of today's round brilliant. Old European cuts became common in the late 1800s, once machines made it easier to round a diamond, and they were the dominant cut through the Edwardian and Art Deco years. They keep the high crown, small table and open culet of the old mine cut, in a circular outline. Browse our old European cut diamonds.

Transitional cut

Cut in the 1930s and 1940s, as cutters moved toward the proportions used today. A transitional cut usually has a slightly larger table and a smaller culet than an old European cut, so it is a little brighter, while still keeping some of the older character.

Single cut

A simple round cut with far fewer facets, used for small accent stones. Single cuts are what you see lining the shoulders and halos of many Edwardian and Art Deco rings.

How to recognize an old cut diamond

You do not need a lab for a first look. A 10x loupe and good light are enough.

• Look for the culet. Straight down through the table, most old cuts show a small open circle at the center. Modern diamonds come to a point, so you will not see one.
• Look at the crown. Old cuts sit tall above the girdle, with a small table on top. Modern stones have a larger, flatter table.
• Watch how it plays with light. Old cuts show broad, chunky flashes and patches of color. Modern brilliants break light into many small pinpoints.
• Check the outline. Hand-cut stones are rarely perfectly round or perfectly square. Slight irregularity is normal and part of the charm.
• Check the paperwork. GIA and other labs describe old cuts by their cutting style, for example "Old European Brilliant" or "Cushion Old Mine Brilliant", so a report will tell you exactly what you have.

For a closer comparison of the two most common types, see our guide to old mine cut vs. old European cut diamonds.

Why buyers choose old cut diamonds

They look different, and you can see it across a room

Old cuts were cut to make the most of soft, warm light. In daylight or by candlelight they glow, with big flashes of white and color. Many of our clients describe modern diamonds as "too sparkly" once they have seen an old cut in person.

Every one is unique

Because each stone was cut by hand, no two are the same. The proportions, the outline and the way the facets meet all carry the hand of the cutter.

A finite treasure

No one cuts new old mine or old European cut diamonds today. The ones that remain in their original mountings are a finite and cherished supply, which is part of what makes owning one so special.

No new mining

An antique diamond was mined and cut generations ago. Choosing one does not add to new mining, which matters to a growing number of our clients.

History you can wear

An old cut diamond in its original mounting carries the story of the era it came from, sometimes quite literally, with names and dates engraved inside the band.

What to check before you buy

• Ask about the stone's history, including whether it is original to the mounting. A knowledgeable dealer will know the story.
• Ask for a lab report on important stones. Many of our engagement rings come with GIA reports confirming the cut, color and clarity.
• Look at the prongs. A good dealer checks them and, if needed, re-tips them before selling, so the ring is ready for daily wear.
• Judge an old cut on its own terms. Old cuts were designed for a different kind of beauty than today's proportions, with broad, warm flashes that a modern cut grade does not capture.
• See it on video. Photos flatten old cuts. Ask for a video in natural light, or a live video call.

Questions we hear often

Are old cut diamonds real diamonds?

Yes. They are natural diamonds, simply cut in an earlier style. The term describes the cut, not the material.

Are old cut diamonds less sparkly?

They sparkle differently. Old cuts give larger, slower flashes and more visible color (fire), especially in soft light. Modern brilliants give more small, bright pinpoints, especially under bright store lighting.

Is an old European cut the same as a vintage diamond?

An old European cut is one specific cutting style, round with a small table and open culet, made from the late 1800s to the 1930s. "Vintage diamond" is a loose term that can mean any older stone.

Can old cut diamonds be set in a new ring?

Yes, and some people do this with family stones. We usually recommend an original period mounting when possible, because the two were made for each other.

See them in person

The best way to understand old cut diamonds is to see a few side by side. Browse our antique engagement rings, old European cut diamonds and old mine cut diamonds, or get in touch and we will send you extra photos and video of any piece, or show it to you on a video call. You can also visit us by appointment in Great Neck, New York.

Written by Shawn Eshaghian, appraiser and co-owner of The Antique Parlour in Great Neck, New York, which he runs with Natasha. He writes and signs The Antique Parlour's certificates of appraisal.