Edwardian vs. Art Deco Jewelry: How to Tell the Difference
Edwardian jewelry (about 1901 to 1915) is delicate, lacy and almost entirely white: platinum, diamonds and pearls worked into garlands, bows and fine filigree. Art Deco jewelry (about 1920 to 1939) is geometric and bold: straight lines, strong symmetry and, often, contrasting color from sapphires, emeralds, rubies or onyx. Both eras favored platinum and old European cut diamonds, which is why they are easy to confuse, but once you know what to look for, the difference is clear.
Edwardian jewelry, about 1901 to 1915
The era takes its name from King Edward VII, who reigned from 1901 to 1910, but the style carried on until about 1915. It is sometimes called the Belle Époque or the garland style.
- Platinum comes into its own. Jewelers learned to work platinum with hotter torches, and its strength let them build fine, airy mountings that looked like lace.
- White on white. Diamonds, platinum and pearls dominate. Color, when it appears, is usually a single sapphire, ruby or demantoid garnet.
- Soft, romantic motifs. Garlands, wreaths, bows, ribbons, tassels and flowers, with lots of curves.
- Fine detail. Hand-pierced filigree, milgrain edges and knife-edge shanks.
- Diamonds. Old European and old mine cuts, with rose cuts and single cuts as accents.
Art Deco jewelry, about 1920 to 1939
The name comes from the 1925 Paris exhibition of decorative arts. In the 1920s, design turned modern: cleaner, faster and more architectural.
- Geometry. Straight lines, steps, chevrons, hexagons and strong symmetry.
- Contrast and color. Calibré sapphires, emeralds and rubies, each cut to fit its spot, along with onyx, coral and jade against white diamonds.
- New diamond cuts. Alongside old European cuts, baguettes, French cuts, Asscher cuts and other step cuts.
- Platinum and white gold. White gold became widely used alongside platinum, often in the same ring.
- Die-struck filigree. Geometric filigree was often stamped, then pierced and finished by hand.
- Global influences. Egyptian motifs after the discovery of Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922, and Asian and Persian designs.
Shop Art Deco jewelry, and see how to identify an authentic Art Deco ring.
Side by side
| Edwardian | Art Deco | |
|---|---|---|
| Dates | About 1901 to 1915 | About 1920 to 1939 |
| Lines | Curves, garlands, bows | Straight lines, geometry, symmetry |
| Color | Mostly white: diamonds, pearls, platinum | White with strong contrast: blue, green, red, black |
| Metal | Platinum, sometimes platinum on gold | Platinum and white gold |
| Filigree | Lacy and hand pierced | Geometric, often die struck then hand finished |
| Diamond cuts | Old European, old mine, rose, single cut | Old European, transitional, baguette, French, Asscher, step cuts |
| Feel | Delicate, feminine, airy | Bold, architectural, modern |
What about pieces in between?
Jewelry did not change overnight. Many rings from roughly 1915 to 1925 mix both styles: an Edwardian-style lacy mounting with the first touches of geometric design, or early Deco pieces that still carry milgrain and soft curves. You will often see these described as Edwardian/Art Deco or transitional. When in doubt, the diamond cuts, the metal and the construction help date a piece more reliably than the design alone.
Which suits you?
- Edwardian if you love romance, softness and a light, airy ring that sits close to the finger.
- Art Deco if you love clean lines, a bolder silhouette or a touch of color.
Still deciding? Our guide to antique vs. modern engagement rings covers each era, and you can browse every antique engagement ring we have in one place.
Questions we hear often
Is Art Deco jewelry antique?
Pieces made before about 1925 are now over 100 years old and count as antique. Later Art Deco pieces are, strictly speaking, vintage, though the whole era is widely collected as antique jewelry.
Was Edwardian jewelry made in gold?
Yes. Platinum was the luxury metal of the era, but many Edwardian pieces were made in gold, or with platinum on top and gold underneath.
How can I tell if a ring is really from the period?
Look at the diamond cut, the hallmarks and the handwork. Our hallmark guide and Art Deco authentication guide walk through the details, or ask us about any piece.
Written by Shawn Eshaghian, appraiser and co-owner of The Antique Parlour in Great Neck, New York, which he runs with Natasha. He writes and signs The Antique Parlour's certificates of appraisal.
