Signed Antique Jewelry Houses: Cartier, Tiffany & More

A signature stamped into a ring or brooch is its own kind of provenance — proof of the workshop that made it, and often a good part of what it's worth. Here are the houses whose work defines fine antique and vintage jewelry, what to know about each, and what to look for on the metal itself.

Cartier ✦ Tiffany & Co. ✦ Van Cleef & Arpels ✦ Oscar Heyman ✦ David Webb ✦ McTeigue & Co. ✦ Deacon & Francis ✦ Boucheron ✦ Bulgari ✦ Harry Winston ✦ Buccellati ✦ Marcus & Co. ✦ Seaman Schepps ✦ Verdura ✦ Chaumet ✦ Black, Starr & Frost ✦ J.E. Caldwell & Co.

Cartier

Founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, and famously dubbed "the jeweler of kings, the king of jewelers" by King Edward VII. Cartier's Art Deco work — geometric platinum settings, calibré-cut sapphires and onyx — defines the look of the era, alongside enduring motifs like the Trinity ring and the Panthère.

Marks to look for: "Cartier," often paired with a serial number and the city of the workshop (Paris, London, or New York).

Tiffany & Co.

Founded in New York in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany. Tiffany invented the six-prong "Tiffany Setting" in 1886, which became the industry standard for solitaire engagement rings. From the 1950s on, in-house designer Jean Schlumberger brought a whimsical, nature-inspired sensibility — birds, shells, starfish — that remains highly collectible today.

Marks to look for: "Tiffany & Co.," with "Schlumberger" marking that specific design line.

Van Cleef & Arpels

Founded in Paris in 1906. Best known for the Mystery Setting, an invisible-set technique that hides all metal behind the stones, and the four-leaf clover Alhambra motif introduced in 1968.

Marks to look for: "Van Cleef & Arpels" with a serial number.

Oscar Heyman

Founded in New York in 1912 by five immigrant brothers, and often called "the jewelers' jeweler" — for decades, Oscar Heyman made pieces sold under other houses' names, including Tiffany and Cartier, before signing more of its own work. Renowned for platinum craftsmanship and exceptional gemstone quality.

Marks to look for: An "OH" monogram, or "Oscar Heyman" with a stock number.

David Webb

Founded in New York in 1948. Known for bold, sculptural gold work — often animal motifs like frogs and bees — combined with enamel and cabochon gemstones. A favorite of Jacqueline Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor.

Marks to look for: "David Webb" alongside an 18K purity stamp.

McTeigue & Co.

A New York workshop founded in 1929, historically known for producing fine jewelry for major retailers, along with whimsical figural brooches under its own name.

Marks to look for: "McTeigue" stamped on the reverse.

Deacon & Francis

A historic workshop known especially for men's jewelry — cufflinks and studs in particular — often featuring animal and sporting motifs in gold and enamel.

Marks to look for: "Deacon & Francis" stamped on the reverse.

Boucheron

Founded in Paris in 1858 by Frédéric Boucheron, who in 1893 became the first jeweler to open a house on Place Vendôme. Known for naturalistic Belle Époque design, most famously the "Question Mark" necklace, engineered to sit on the collarbone without a clasp.

Marks to look for: "Boucheron" with a serial number, often alongside "Paris."

Bulgari

Founded in Rome in 1884 by Sotirio Bulgari. Known for bold, saturated combinations of colored gemstones rather than diamonds alone, the Retro-era "Monete" coin jewelry, and the coiled Serpenti motif introduced in the 1940s.

Marks to look for: "Bulgari," historically sometimes stamped "BVLGARI" in the Roman style.

Harry Winston

Founded in New York in 1932. Earned the nickname "King of Diamonds" for handling some of the world's most celebrated stones, including the Hope Diamond, which he ultimately donated to the Smithsonian.

Marks to look for: "Harry Winston" with a stock number.

Buccellati

Founded in Milan in 1919 by Mario Buccellati. Signature engraved "rigato" (ribbed) and "segrinato" (finely etched) gold finishes that mimic the texture of antique textile and lace — a technique that remains difficult to reproduce.

Marks to look for: "Buccellati" or "M. Buccellati," often with "Italy."

Marcus & Co.

Founded in New York in 1892. One of the leading American houses of the Art Nouveau and Edwardian eras, especially admired for its pliqué-à-jour enamel work.

Marks to look for: "Marcus & Co." stamped on the reverse.

Seaman Schepps

Founded in New York in 1904. Known from the 1930s onward for bold, sculptural combinations of shell, coral, and colored gemstones — a distinctly American counterpoint to European formality.

Marks to look for: "Seaman Schepps" stamped on the reverse.

Verdura

Founded in New York in 1939 by the Sicilian-born Fulco di Verdura, who designed for Coco Chanel before opening his own house. Known for whimsical shell, starfish, and Maltese cross motifs.

Marks to look for: "Verdura" stamped on the reverse.

Chaumet

Founded in Paris in 1780, one of the oldest houses on Place Vendôme, with a history tied to Napoleonic-era tiaras and diadems as the favored jeweler of the French Empire.

Marks to look for: "Chaumet" with a serial number.

Black, Starr & Frost

Founded in New York in 1810, often cited as America's oldest jewelry firm — predating Tiffany & Co. by nearly three decades.

Marks to look for: "Black, Starr & Frost" stamped on the reverse.

J.E. Caldwell & Co.

Founded in Philadelphia in 1839. A historic American retailer-jeweler known for fine craftsmanship spanning the Victorian through Retro eras.

Marks to look for: "J.E. Caldwell & Co." or "JEC & Co."

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