October Birthstone: Antique Opal Jewelry, from Victorian Cabochons to Art Deco Black Opal
Opal is the October birthstone, and antique opal jewelry shows it at its most expressive: Victorian cabochons framed in old mine diamonds, Edwardian and Art Deco black opals set in platinum, each stone with a pattern of color no other opal repeats. Tourmaline is the modern alternate for October, but opal is the stone most people mean, and it has the longer story.
Below we cover where that flash of color comes from, how each era set its opals, the queen who made opals fashionable, and how to care for one. Along the way we show pieces from our own cases at The Antique Parlour.
What makes an opal flash
An opal's flashes of color, which jewelers call play of color, come from its structure. Precious opal is made of tiny spheres of silica stacked in orderly rows, and light passing through those rows splits into spectral colors. Tilt the stone and the colors move. Because the stacking is different in every stone, no two opals show the same pattern, which is why we describe each one so carefully in our listings.
Opal also holds a small amount of water within its structure. That is part of its character, and it is why opal enjoys a little extra care (more on that below).
Antique opal jewelry, era by era
| Era | How opal was used | What to look for |
|---|---|---|
| Victorian (1837 to 1901) | White opal cabochons in yellow gold, often framed by old mine cut diamonds; clusters, three-stone rings and navette shapes | Silver-topped gold settings, hand engraving, carved details |
| Belle Epoque and Edwardian (about 1890s to 1915) | Opal set in platinum lacework and filigree; black opal begins to appear | Fine milgrain, pierced galleries, old European cut diamonds |
| Art Deco (about 1920 to 1939) | Black opal and bright white opal in platinum, with crisp diamond borders | Low settings, geometric galleries, scrollwork |
Victorian opals
For most of history, Europe's opal came from mines in what is now Slovakia. In the second half of the 19th century, Australian opal fields opened, and brighter white opals reached Victorian jewelers in quantity. They set them as cabochons in warm yellow gold, often alongside old mine cut diamonds.
Our Victorian navette ring is a good example: five natural opals in a long navette shape, surrounded by old mine cut diamonds in 14K yellow gold. A more unusual piece is our Victorian 15K gold Asclepios ring, with a white opal cabochon of about 5 carats and what look to be figures of Asclepios, the Greek god of medicine, on each shoulder, gently softened over the years.
Belle Epoque and Edwardian opals
Around the turn of the century, platinum let jewelers build delicate, lacy mountings, and opal's soft color sat beautifully against it. Our French Belle Epoque ring holds a natural opal of about 7.5 carats with flashes of blue and green, ringed by old cut diamonds in laced platinum.
This is also when black opal arrived. Lightning Ridge in New South Wales, Australia, began producing it in the early 1900s, and its dark body color makes the play of color look deeper and more saturated. Our Edwardian black opal ring has a black opal of about 8 carats with flashes of red and blue in a pattern that looks like a stormy sky, set in a filigree mounting with old cut diamonds.
The Edwardian Kirkpatrick Co pin pendant frames a bright natural opal with natural Burmese rubies and an outer row of old European cut diamonds set in platinum. The pin unscrews so it can be worn as a pendant, and it still has its original box.
Art Deco black opals
Art Deco jewelers paired black opal with platinum and white diamonds for strong contrast. Our Art Deco J. E. Caldwell ring, from the Philadelphia jeweler, features a natural solid black opal of about 4.25 carats with peacock colors, old European cut diamonds on the sides, and a scrolled gallery that sits very low on the finger.
Queen Victoria's opals
Queen Victoria loved opals. She wore them herself and gave opal jewelry to members of her family, and her enthusiasm helped make the stone a Victorian favorite. Many of the opal rings and brooches that come to us today date from her reign, and they still carry that sense of romance.
How to care for an antique opal
- Clean it gently with a soft, slightly damp cloth; that is all an opal needs to glow.
- Keep it at a comfortable room temperature and away from household cleaners.
- Opal is a gentler stone than diamond, sapphire or ruby, so slip a cocktail ring off for the gym, gardening and housework.
- Store it on its own in a soft pouch, where it stays protected.
- Have a jeweler check the prongs or bezel once a year.
Our jewelry care and hallmark guide covers more.
Questions we hear often
What is the October birthstone?
Opal is the traditional October birthstone. Tourmaline is the modern alternate.
What does opal symbolize?
Opal has long been linked with hope, creativity and imagination, fitting for a stone that shows a different play of color every time it moves. For October birthdays, it is a personal stone like no other.
What is the difference between a black opal and a white opal?
It is the body color behind the play of color. A black opal has a dark body color, which makes its flashes look deeper and stronger; a white opal has a light body color and a softer, milky glow.
Can you wear an antique opal ring every day?
You can. A low setting keeps the stone close to the finger, and slipping it off for rough work keeps it at its best. If you want one ring for every day, we are happy to talk through which settings suit that best.
Find your October opal
Our opals live across our Victorian, Edwardian and Art Deco collections, and the J. E. Caldwell ring is also in our Signed Pieces. To learn more about the diamonds that frame them, read What Are Old Cut Diamonds?, How to Identify Victorian Jewelry and Edwardian vs. Art Deco Jewelry. If you would like more photos or a video of any opal, contact us.
Written by Shawn Eshaghian, appraiser and co-owner of The Antique Parlour in Great Neck, New York, which he runs with Natasha. He writes and signs The Antique Parlour's certificates of appraisal.
